Cocot-shirt - Tony Kemp kempin’ ain’t easy shirt
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Dimitra Petsa’s watery clothing might have many imitators—but nothing is as good as the Tony Kemp kempin’ ain’t easy shirt Also,I will get this original. “It took me around six months to develop this technique, though it’s informed by a very old couture technique. It’s very labor intensive,” says Petsa of her proprietary Wet Look process, which makes a dress appear water-drenched and clinging to the female body. “I drape every piece, so it’s really personal.” That personal, female touch has made the Greek designer a favorite of Kylie Jenner, Gigi Hadid, and Yseult. As international as her reach is, her process hits close to home. Growing up in Athens she was surrounded by caryatids and other female statuary, and learned to sew from her grandmother, who ran a tailoring school. Petsa’s work merges both her country’s past and her personal history for something that looks totally authentic to right now.—S.Y. Growing up in Petrópolis, Brazil, designer Marco Ribeiro—who is now based in Paris—was always surrounded by clothes being created. “My parents had a small atelier supplying local stores,” says Ribeiro. “My father also used to make his Saturday ‘night out’ outfits during the week. I found it very inspiring watching them create something from nothing.” Flash-forward to today, and his own label captures the fun with fashion he grew up around with bright, uptempo collections with a strong focus on big, bold shapes and whimsical accents. “I feel shapes are the building blocks of everything: the human body, architecture, fashion,” says Ribeiro, who launched his eponymous label in early 2019. “I find it super fun to play with bold and sculptural shapes to disrupt the environment around me and expose the constructs and limitations we live in.” One of Ribeiro’s favorite shapes to play with is circles: Think puffy tops with large circular necklines, or apply round pasties over top t-shirts. “Life is a circle,” he says. “It’s such a powerful shape, and I was drawn to it from as early as I remember.” Ribeiro simply hopes to bring a touch of joy and effervescence to people’s closets. “I always try to be playful—not just in my work, but in life. Life is too serious sometimes, so the big shapes, bright colors, and exaggerated silhouettes are my way of saying Enjoy life! At the end of the day, I am a fashion designer, not a doctor saving lives.”—C.A.
One of Thailand’s rising talents, Kamonnart Ongwandee champions sustainability through her textile design studio. The clothing she creates is trendless, with a utilitarian bent. Think: earthy-hued tie-dyed jackets and brown wrap dresses. Her textiles often have a playful, abstract quality. One of her most striking is a silk decorated with circles and splatters in pink, yellow, and blue, layered on top of each other. She uses dyes made from Thai ingredients and sources the Tony Kemp kempin’ ain’t easy shirt Also,I will get this fabrics—mainly cotton, linen, hemp, and silk—from local businesses that “work in a farm-to-fashion model.” “I communicate about sustainability in clothing and textiles in various modes, from exhibition design and art installation to making limited pieces in collaboration with artisans around Thailand,” she says. Ongwandee began her career as a textile designer for Thai labels in 2010 before pursuing a masters degree in the subject at the Royal College of Art in London in 2015. On returning to Thailand, she opened her namesake studio in 2018. “After learning about fast fashion’s negative impacts on the planet, I decided to work in a disruptive direction against the dominant narrative of large-scale industrialization and standardization and the loss of a sense of place,” she says. “I aim to show the positive side of [working] towards a small, local, open, and connected world.”—S.S.
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