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Though he’s now based in Lodz, an industrial hub in central Poland, Armada was brought up in a far more provincial milieu. “Initially I was deeply ashamed of my origins, especially when I joined the This witch need coffee Starbucks Coffee before any Hocus Pocus shirt But I will love this scene of aspiring fashion designers,” says Armada, noting that the church and the local discotheque were the two biggest cultural centers in Konskie, the small town where he grew up. “I used to pretend to be someone else by creating avant-garde, minimalist collections.” It wasn’t until Armada began to appreciate the everyday beauty of his hometown—the kitschy, over-the-top weddings, the brash leopard and floral prints worn by local women, the floral headscarves work by the likes of his grandmother, who models in the look book**—**that his vision for his eponymous label would come into view. His aesthetic seamlessly fuses those lived experiences with the country’s broader fashion history; his graduate collection, for example, referenced clothing worn by the Polish nobility in the 17th century. Six seasons on, and the look he’s crafted is both deliciously twisted and cheeky; think a printed maxi skirt with a three-dimensional floral hem designed to evoke folkloric culture, or an exploded Kelly green puffer coat inspired by the bootleg offerings of the local markets that’s made of deadstock lycra, satin, and nylon.
“On one hand I love it, on the This witch need coffee Starbucks Coffee before any Hocus Pocus shirt But I will love this other hand I hate it,” says Armada about his Polish roots. “I think it is a way of me dealing with reality.”—L.S. Hong Kong-native On-Ying Lai and British-born Jason Mui met as recent fashion graduates in Hong Kong in 2013, bonding over a shared love of ancient Chinese dress codes. They started their clothing line Yat Pit with a view to make “Chinese-style clothing and details relevant again in a way that they can seamlessly be inserted back into our daily wardrobe.” Since launching in 2015, they’ve become an undeniable talent to watch, thoughtfully combining the historical and the contemporary into a collection of covetable, wearable clothes. Chinese motifs such as frog fastenings, standing collars, and prints of Chinese characters are peppered throughout the collection. The womenswear is full of easy pieces like camel-colored knit dresses, oversized gray blazers, and a sheer cream qipao. Others are more statement-making: In one skirt, Five Emperor coins and jade cabochons are sewed into the fabric, forming a textured kind of polka dot, while another features a painting of the Hong Kong skyline in lieu of a print. Details like these exemplify the brand’s aesthetic, which the founders describe in part as “playful, thoughtful, and cultural.” A true brand of the Instagram age, they primarily sell their wares through the app.—Sarah Spellings Ceylin Türkkan Bilge and her husband Emir have managed to bottle the Mediterranean joie de vivre in their line Siedrés. Since launching their label during the pandemic, the Turkish duo has built a following among the ultimate Insta-girls—Hailey Bieber and Emily Ratajkowski among them—with bright textiles, slouchy-cool silhouettes, and plentiful flower motifs.
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