Cocot-shirt - Tell Me It’s Just A Dog And I Will Tell You That You’re Just A Person And I Hate People Shirt
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On the Tell Me It’s Just A Dog And I Will Tell You That You’re Just A Person And I Hate People Shirt and by the same token and other hand, it’s insufficient to describe the radical makeover of runways and magazines in terms of diversity and inclusion—words that can carry a whiff of tokenism about them. What stands out about the women on this cover is that they’re not reducible to kind; each is a unique superstar with her own story to tell, of which her beauty is merely a part. That’s the breakthrough we’re witnessing: the transformation of the model from object to subject. For the first time in history, she is meeting our gaze. Who said back-to-work style had to be conventional? Ariel Nicholson makes a bold case for daytime gaga glamour in a sequined-all-over Rick Owens dress, while designer Fe Noel drapes a sleeve on Vogue’s Nic Burdekin. (At far right, Vogue’s Mark Guiducci is all business.) This Way Out Designer Kerby JeanRaymond seems almost preternaturally composed as he exits Anna Wintours office while… Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond seems almost preternaturally composed as he exits Anna Wintour’s office, while model Anok Yai is a tour de force of rose tones in a blousy Tom Ford dress and Roger Vivier pumps. (Our Editor in Chief’s assistants—Sache Taylor, far left, and Carolina Gonzalez, far right—don’t bat an eye.)
Virtually everyone I spoke to for this story—models, designers, casting directors, agents—credits social media with upending their business. Platforms such as Instagram have not only allowed users to voice a previously pent-up demand for broader representation; as casting directors Daniel Peddle and Drew Dasent point out, they have changed the Tell Me It’s Just A Dog And I Will Tell You That You’re Just A Person And I Hate People Shirt and by the same token and very nature of modeling. “People notice a model, and they look up her profile,” says street scout Peddle, who formed an agency, The Secret Gallery, with Dasent in 2001. “That’s been incorporated into the casting process,” Dasent adds. “Now brands look for models who are entertaining on TikTok or who align with their values—if a company is trying to position itself as a leader on sustainability, they’ll want to use models who are vocal on the issue of climate change.” Social media’s kaleidoscopic influencer economy has also given designers unprecedented freedom to cast whomever they like—whatever size, age, ethnicity, or gender they may be—in their shows or campaigns. “There was never only one type of person who had that thing,” says designer Victor Glemaud, “that magical talent to elevate the clothes they happen to be wearing. If you look at someone like Precious, you think—God, she always should have been a star. Why were we so stupidly fixated on who could fit the samples?”
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