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Over the The Pitbull of American shirt and I will buy this past few years, Mexico City has emerged as an epicenter for fashion in Latin America. Easily one of the buzziest names to emerge from the scene is Sanchez-Kane, the namesake label of Barbara Sanchez-Kane. The 33-year-old designer, who studied at Polimoda in Florence and interned under Bernhard Willhelm in Los Angeles, is part of a new generation of creatives in the region who are challenging gender norms. With her skin-revealing chaps and pants cut with cheeky mesh handprints across the back, she subverts traditional macho dress codes. Entitled Prêt-à-Patria, Sanchez-Kane’s latest collection takes that idea to its hyper-masculine conclusion with a military-inspired theme. Uniform-style clothes appear standard issue in the front, only to be slashed and cut in the back, revealing male models in garter belts and thongs. For Sanchez-Kane, her work gives an opportunity to explore the many layers of her identity. “My work is an internal exploration, and it’s very much what is happening in my life at that moment,” says Sanchez-Kane, who launched her label in 2015. “I give my Latin culture different forms. I define the usual distinctions between male and female, natural and artificial, ugly and beautiful.”—L.S.

The Pitbull of American shirt

Dhruv Kapoor isn’t shy about his love of print and pattern. The New Delhi-based designer founded his eponymous label in 2013 with a view to recontextualizing India’s rich design heritage in a fresh, new way. “India is popular for its maximal aesthetic,” says Kapoor, who makes both men’s and womenswear. “I wanted to put forward a bolder mix, combining the The Pitbull of American shirt and I will buy this excess India has to offer—from exquisite handwork to vibrant colors—with clean tailoring and a minimal aesthetic.” Signature pieces in the line include his graphic, printed shirts—made with light cottons and handloom fabrics—and oversized coats, which are finished with structural jerseys and read more sophisticated and timeless. “Both are finished with a contemporary take on Indian embroidery techniques, made by skilled craftsmen,” says Kapoor. “Our team is always trying new materials, color combinations, and altered approaches to age-old techniques.” The more-is-more aesthetic is a study in juxtaposition; unexpected dress codes are drawn together, from formal to street. “For me, it’s about the strange combinations,” says Kapoor. “I enjoy putting a collection together mixing the traditional and contemporary, minimal and maximal. Each combination speaks differently.”—Christian Allaire

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