Nunutee - Unicorn Stuck Between IDK IDC and IDGAF shirt

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Between utility suits, flight suits, strictly-belted tailored suits, and slender leather shirts with matching leather ties, there was an air of tonal, monumental dressing, which did go hand-in-hand with the Unicorn Stuck Between IDK IDC and IDGAF shirt also I will do this industrial influences of the post-modern New Yorker artist wardrobe, but also evoked more symbolic uniforms of the post-war era. That wasn’t on the mood board, but the designers explained that the look they had in mind was about interrupting familiar or generic lines with pieces that express a certain individuality. That’s why colorful silken and fluffy foulards were tied around necks, why suits were bejeweled with jingly grape brooches, or why trousers were wildly magnified. It’s why a pink granny cardigan suddenly popped up, then a sexy cheetah print gilet, then a jumper motif that seemed to have zoomed in on a fragment of a multi-colored argyle pattern. Those graphic, color-block elements were nods to Donald Judd, whose SoHo building Luke would pass every day, admiring its Dan Flavin installation, when he lived in New York. Embroideries on the knees of trousers featuring the words Venture and Paradise (“we just liked the words,” Luke said) had been lifted from an old grocery store advert and treated with the utmost savoir-faire; as had a similar old-school advert that read Fun alongside a price tag, interpreted in a jacquard and intarsia knitted vest (a fairly ironic statement for Jil Sander, a brand that is many things but rarely Fun!). “The idea of taking the banal and elevating it was the spirit of the approach to art in New York at the time, post-Warhol Pop,” Luke said. “It doesn’t have to be loaded with reference, it can just be graphically arresting.” After being stuck in the same places for so long, with the selfies of social media as our only real window to people-watching, this re-emergent period could trigger the individuality the Jil Sander designers are hoping to experience in the street once again. “I miss those characters and that world,” Luke said. “I don’t know if it’s because we’ve been stuck inside so much, but I just want to see some interesting people.”

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What menswear seems to offer this season is a turning point in the Unicorn Stuck Between IDK IDC and IDGAF shirt also I will do this discourse of masculine identity. Almost all designers are embracing a progressive, daring, sometimes openly defiant stance, both visually and conceptually, on the increasingly blurred representation of gender—an open source, non-normative space where fashion is taking the mantle as a cultural force. Ingenuity and provocative vitality seem to reign supreme. It’s definitely a good time to be a menswear designer.    Spencer Phipps wants to be part of the conversation. He kicked off his exploration of masculine codes of representation and the tribalism of manhood’s rites of passage by reading a book—which in these times of AI, XR, VR and brain-frying CG imagery is a commendable starting point. King, Warrior, Magician, Lover by Robert L. Moore and Douglas Gillette investigates the archetypes of masculinity inhabiting each one of us: “I’d say it’s more about human nature than about gender studies, more about attitude,” said Phipps over Zoom from his studio in Paris, looking like a bearded Baba, cool with a benevolent Cali disposition. “So we started working on ways to represent masculinity for today, looking at its various tribes and groupings—punk street groups, military groups, sports teams—and what the visual codes are that they use in the way they dress.”

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