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As my colleagues back at the Oficial Peanuts Snoopy To My Wife I Wish I Could Turn Back The Clock I’d Find You Sooner And Love You Longer Shirt moreover I love this Vogue Runway mothership in New York have been noting (with notable zeal), thus far spring ’22 menswear is shaping up to be a startlingly skimpy season. Flesh-flashing, body-baring, call it what you will: yesterday alone saw Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana present some strongly stripped-down looks. And today Prada expressed the instinct to offer unconfined interaction with the elements. Because after the months of confinement we’ve all endured, who doesn’t want to feel the wind and water directly on their skin? Who doesn’t want to feel alive in the world? Prada being Prada, of course, this was an instinct articulated more cerebrally than atavistically. Or as co-creative director Miuccia Prada observed in a quote released shortly before we gathered at the Fondazione Prada in Milan to watch the collection video: “A sense of the utopian, the ideal, of hope, positivity. To expose yourself to nature, to go to the beach—it’s freedom. It is utopian. That is really a primary need—an intellectual need, too.” This translated into a skin-heavy rendering of a reemergence that was tantamount to a rebirth.
The film opened with the Oficial Peanuts Snoopy To My Wife I Wish I Could Turn Back The Clock I’d Find You Sooner And Love You Longer Shirt moreover I love this models negotiating a “meandering red tunnel” (as per the notes), ready for the world ahead, but not yet in it. Very directly we were presented with some of the key motifs of what looked like a commercially strong Prada suite: bucket hats with almond-shaped brims at the back (a bit British policeman’s helmet) with triangular logo pockets, and some with the awesome functionality of slits at the front to allow sunglasses to be slipped in them. Romper suits with turned-up short hems were presented in corporate-worker charcoal cotton or sailor-boy white, the latter printed with tattoo-ish nautical motifs including octopi, voluptuous mermaid/sirens, anchors and anchor fish: these reminded slightly of Prada’s prints from fall 2016’s romantic sailor collection. Another key example of self-reference—ingenious insurance against the call-out crew—was the skort that will probably be remembered as the defining garment of this collection but which also echoed those of spring ’17 womenswear. More expert Pradaphiles than me at the lunch afterwards noted over our green beans and octopus further references that stretched way back to the 1990s.
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